Mount Saskatchewan is a difficult climbers scramble via the South West ridge. By climbers scramble, I mean that it is not technically a scramble in the strictest sense. There are 2 short pitches of low fifth class rock with significant exposure that need to be taken very seriously. A short rope for rappelling would be very useful for this section. The rest of the climb consists of moderate and difficult scrambling. The difficult sections are the 2 cliff bands that you need to ascend through half way up the mountain. The first cliff band has a break that you scramble through. The second cliff band has a break that includes the 2 short sections of low fifth class rock. The final summit block also has difficult scrambling on very weak broken shale. The ascent is very enjoyable and I totally recommend it. I came back twice to get this summit for a reason after all. The views are spectacular throughout the whole approach and ascent. Go here for a description of the approach route.

We woke up bright and early for this objective at about 6am. We had to lose a bit of elevation from our base camp to the West of Mount Saskatchewan high up in the Terrace Creek Valley in to get to a grassy ledge that we followed to the South West ridge. We passed a false ascent ridge that had fooled me the previous time that I was here. We took off layers before beginning the long trudge up scree to the South West ridge. It went easier than the last time I was here since we ascended further right where there was less loose scree. A cliff band forced us to head left a bit before we could reach the ridge crest. Wonderful morning views captivated us across the valley. The Terrace Mountain Range was in perfect lighting.

The ascent up the ridge was slow and pleasant. A bit of scrambly parts here and there. The rock was really weak shaley crap that wasn't good for any hand holds. It was still pretty manageable though. Once at the main cliff bands we traversed South across the face about 50 meters to reach the break in the first cliff band. There was lots of difficult scrambling in the first cliff band. There are some cairns to help route finding here. After reaching the second cliff band we again traversed right to reach a break in the cliff band. This break requires 2 short pitches of low fifth class rock. We were glad that we brought a rappel rope with us since this section was also significantly exposed. We found a sling that was left behind by the previous party that had been here 3 weeks previously. Once past the tough stuff we ascended straight up the face to the summit ridge. There was some moderate. scrambling at times in this section. Mostly this section consisted of very tiring treadmill scree. This mountain really makes you earn your way to the summit.

The next day I needed to be back earlier than Raff and Allan so I woke up earlier and hoofed it back pretty quickly. The weather was great once again on the day out. I was able to get back to the car in about 5 hours. I made a couple cairns on the route past the col between Saskatchewan and the North Towers on the way out to aid future travelers. The snow patches that we had hiked over on the way in had become rock solid and icy. Rather than putting on my crampons, I just slid down them on my but. It was actually pretty fun. The snow was not steep enough for me to get going too fast. At the final steep descent in the trees I stayed close to the canyon and managed to stay on the trail most of the time. This was easier than bush whacking through the forest but a little dangerous as tripping or slipping might have resulted in rolling into the canyon. If you are not feeling so steady after 2 or more days of climbing then maybe you should stick to the forest.

This was an excellent trip. Thanks go to Raff and Allan for helping me finally complete my quest for Mount Saskatchewan. But, I will be back. There are lots of peaks and ridges in this area that would be worth a return trip or 2

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