play Up One Level not an important image Scrambling Photos from Mount PattersonAugust 4, 2008


On our 3rd day of scenic splendor we set out for Mount Patterson. Best known for the Snowbird Glacier that hangs off its North face above the Icefields Parkway. We headed North East from our camp at Caldron Lake toward the valley between Caldron Peak and Mount Patterson. We would have to descend into the valley beneath the Delta Glacier as it over hanged a drop off beneath Mistaya Mountain and we had no glacier travel gear to cross it.

Once further down the valley we noticed two possible routes back up the other side. One ascended a scree slope that looked miserable and the other traversed ledges beneath the Delta Glacier and involved less elevation loss. From a distance the ledges looked very thin and sketchy and objective hazard was also a concern. But not wanting to ascend miserable scree we decided to give it a shot. It turned out to be pleasantly wide and very scenic traversing under the glacier. We made sure to hustle while hiking beneath the glacier to minimize the risk from objective hazard. Once past the danger zone we took many pictures and had a good rest stop on the other side.

The Delta Glacier stretched out to the left of us and partially in front of us. We decided to head around the glacier on the right toward a subpeak of Mount Patterson. I was very sure that we could scramble to the top of this peak but was skeptical about whether we could find a way down from it to the West slopes of Mount Patterson. Once at the base of the sub peak I was unable to see any route around it that didn't involve glacier travel. It had already been a long trek for us by the time we reached the top of our peak. Even if there was a way down to the slopes of Mount Patterson we would not have kept going. We did find a rather large cairn on our summit which I figured was an indication that this peak is ascended often as a consolation prize when the glacier route up Mount Patterson is not in good condition. It certainly was our consolation summit.

The view was pretty darn good for a consolation summit. The Delta Glacier beneath Mistaya Mountain and the Barbette Glacier were fully visible from our viewpoint. The glacier hanging off of Barbette Mountain was one of the coolest I have ever seen. The Delta Glacier and the Barbette Glacier looked very enjoyable for ski touring. I will have to re-add this area to my wish list for winter. Unfortunately Mount Forbes was mostly blocked from our view by Mount Breaker. Howse Peak and Mount Chephren were very prominent nearby to the North.

As a final quest I decided to explore the ridge leading down to the slopes of Mount Patterson to see if it could be scrambled. After scrambling down a ways it got to the point were it was definitely not a scramble anymore. The exposure was quite incredible to say the least where I turned around. From our viewpoint we could clearly see that Mount Patterson could be scrambled from the North West slopes after ascending the valley beneath the North side of Mount Patterson. Unfortunately this ascent would involve lots of scree and a crossing of the Mistaya River.

One our way back down we decided that a quicker descent would be to head down the scree slope rather than traverse under the Delta Glacier again. Big mistake. That scree slope consisted of awkwardly sized loose rocks on hard glacial till. The entire descent was painful and slow. I need someone to tell me how to identify different kinds of scree slopes from a distance so that I can avoid the miserable ones like this one. Once we finally made it to the bottom of the valley we filled up our water and rested a bit before heading back up the other side to our camp at Caldron Lake

Click on the play button in the top left to start the slideshow or click on any picture to enlarge it. Use the icons on the top left to navigate.


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Hiking North East from Caldron Lake with Peyto Peak behind us on the left. Our ascent route the previous day went up the right moraine then onto the headwall on the right.
Hiking North East from ...
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Hiking over some interesting terrain.
Hiking over some interesting ...
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Some cool tundra we passed over. Mount Thompson in the background. Photo courtesy of Karl Coulthard.
Some cool tundra we passed ...
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Yours truly with Mount Patterson ahead. Photo courtesy of Karl Coulthard.
Yours truly with Mount ...
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Mount Patterson to the North our objective of the day.
Mount Patterson to the North ...
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A panorama of the valley between Caldron Peak and Mount Patterson. The Delta Glacier is on the left. Our ascent route traverse on ledges beneath the Delta glacier to the open slopes across the valley.
A panorama of the valley ...
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A small lake at the bottom of the valley.
A small lake at the bottom of ...
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Heading down the valley.
Heading down the valley.
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The Delta Glacier Hanging over the valley. Our route travels below it on ledges.
The Delta Glacier Hanging ...
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A small lake at the bottom of the valley.
A small lake at the bottom of ...
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Hiking along snow slopes to the gain the ledges below the glacier.
Hiking along snow slopes to ...
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The Delta Glacier.
The Delta Glacier.
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Hiking out over ledges beneath the Delta Glacier.
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Waterfalls coming off of the Delta Glacier.
Waterfalls coming off of the ...
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Objective Hazard that hung above us while we quickly passed below. This photo was taken from a safe location past the hazard zone.
Objective Hazard that hung ...
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Our route following the ledges.
Our route following the ...
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Water coming off of the Delta Glacier.
Water coming off of the Delta ...
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Mistaya Mountain above the Delta Glacier.
Mistaya Mountain above the ...
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Hiking along snow near the Delta Glacier.
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A cool rock pinnacle on Mount Patterson.
A cool rock pinnacle on Mount ...
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The slopes of Mount Patterson. The ascent glacier is on the left. Without ropes we couldn't take this route up so we had to look for another way.
The slopes of Mount ...
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Hiking along beside the Delta Glacier with Mistaya Mountain above.
Hiking along beside the Delta ...
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Yours truly with a subpeak of Mount Patterson above.
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A panorama of the Delta and Barbette Glaciers from the slopes of Mount Patterson.
A panorama of the Delta and ...
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Breaker Mountain to the North West.
Breaker Mountain to the North ...
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Looking around to the North side of the sub peak of Mount Patterson. I couldn't see any obvious routes that avoided glacier travel so we continued to the top of the subpeak.
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Looking North. Ebon Peak in the foreground. The snowy peaks in the distance are South Twin and North Twin. Mount Outram is on the far left. Mount Erasmus is on the far right.
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Karl and I on the summit of the West peak of Mount Patterson. Photo courtesy of Karl Coulthard.
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The upper slopes of Mount Patterson from the subpeak that we turned around from.
The upper slopes of Mount ...
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Peaks North of Mount Patterson. Howse Peak on the left and Mount Chepren on the right are the highest visible peaks. White Pyramid is in the center connected to Mount Chepren.
Peaks North of Mount ...
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Mount Breaker to the North West. The top of Mount Forbes is poking out above it. The Lyell Icefield is on the far right.
Mount Breaker to the North ...
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Barbette Mountain to the West above the Barbette Glacier.
Barbette Mountain to the West ...
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Parapet Peak to the West above the Barbette Glacier.
Parapet Peak to the West ...
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Mistaya Mountain to the South above the Delta Glacier.
Mistaya Mountain to the South ...
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Mount Gordon to the South across the Wapta Icefield.
Mount Gordon to the South ...
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Mount Thompson to the South.
Mount Thompson to the South.
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Caldron Peak to the Southeast.
Caldron Peak to the Southeast.
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Mount Hector to the Southeast.
Mount Hector to the Southeast.
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Looking East to Recondite Peak.
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Looking North to Mount Wilson.
Looking North to Mount Wilson.
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Mountains of the Freshfield Icefield. Mount Freshfield on the left. Solitaire Mountain in the center, Mount Bergne right of center. Part of Mount Conway on the far right.
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Mount Mummery to the South West.
Mount Mummery to the South ...
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Looking North West to the Lyells on the left and Mount Outram on the right.
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Looking South to Peyto Peak and Mount Rhondda behind.
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A panorama of the mountains on the Freshfield Icefield
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A panorama from the summit of the subpeak of Mount Patterson.
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Mount Mummery to the Southwest.
Mount Mummery to the ...
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Abstruse Peak to the North East.
Abstruse Peak to the North ...
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Profound Peak to the East. Recondite Peak on the right.
Profound Peak to the East. ...
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Karl sliding down snow on descent.
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Walking down on our alternate descent route. Miserable stuff to walk on.
Walking down on our alternate ...
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A creek draining from the South Glacier of Mount Patterson.
A creek draining from the ...
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A swampy area on the way back to Caldron Lake.
A swampy area on the way back ...

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