The first of 2 day trips from our Caldron Lake camp. Mistaya Mountain is one of the most spectacular scrambles I have ever ascended. Looking at the standard ascent route which is glaciated I could not see any way of scrambling around the glacier. So we decided to take the scenic route up not knowing if we would encountered glacier travel or not. We didn't bring a rope so we would have had to turn around if we did find ourselves at edge of a glacier.

The scramble route that we took up begins at the West side of Caldron lake and ascends up a moraine on the right side of the North Glacier of Peyto Peak. After reaching the rock on the left side of the cliff face we scrambled up to the top through some sketchy but brief glacial debris. Once on top we had a long way to go to get back to Mistaya Mountain but we were pleased to notice that no glaciers were blocking our route. With glaciers and peaks on the left of us and a precipitous drop not too far to the right with Caldron Lake below we were experiencing scenery overload. The hiking toward Mistaya Mountain was long but beautiful. The rocks made the hiking a little slower but no complaints were made by either of us.

Once at the summit of a subpeak of Mistaya Mountain we could see many Mountains on both the Wapta Icefield to the South and the Freshfield Icefield to the West across the Howse Valley as well as tons of other summits in all directions. After descending a little to the top of the col that is the standard ascent route up Mistaya Mountain we plodded for a while up the long South West slopes. The South West slopes of Mistaya Mountain are very mild in slope and the rock is flat and almost soil like in places. So it makes for pleasant walking. There was no summit register to be found on the summit unfortunately. But if there was one I am sure that it would not have very many entries. The view at the top could not have been better. We must have hung around for almost an hour enjoying the many summits we could see. We were able to count 14 of the 11000ers from there. Mount Forbes was very prominent to the North with clouds that didn't want to let go of it. On our way back down we saw the clouds leave Forbes enough that I could get a picture of it.

Once back at the top of the original ascent gully we decided that we could probably scramble down it after all to the right of the glacier along a ridge. There were 3 short snow crossings that were exposed enough that we would have rather had a rope but since they were short we decided that the risk was acceptable. I made sure to kick good steps for my brother. After that the scrambling on the ridge was pretty enjoyable. In some places I would classify it as advanced. A little bit loose in places as well so helmets are a must for any readers interested in trying this out. I suggest bringing an ice axe as well for the snow crossings. Once back down we got to enjoy our 5 star view at our camp once again before heading to bed after some satisfying dinners

Click on the play button in the top left to start the slideshow or click on any picture to enlarge it. Use the icons on the top left to navigate.

Please send me any comments, suggestions or mountain/flora identifications ecoulthard@gmail.com

All Content © Eric Coulthard. All rights reserved - Commercial use without express written permission of the copyright holder is expressly forbidden.